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Old 04-26-2018, 05:42 PM   #1
Mrbrightside224

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Subwoofer hum

Hi guys I have a problem with my subwoofer humming, I have tried EVERYTHING to stop it other than trying a ground loop isolater which I have ordered, I got told it could be the gauge cable I'm using, the car came with 0 gauge cable fitted in it already does anyone think this is possible? It's a brand new pioneer gm-d9601 mono amp and IV tried a different sub too, also the sub seems to be like down on power if that makes sense, like it's not hitting notes as hard as I know it should, Iv messed about with the EQ on the headunit and still no success, so if someone could offer some advice that would be great. Thanks
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Old 04-26-2018, 06:23 PM   #2
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0 gauge is more than enough for that amp - it's actually too much, but that shouldn't hurt anything. I'd try inputting audio straight into the amp from another source such as a smart phone and see what happens.
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Old 04-26-2018, 08:19 PM   #3
Mrbrightside224

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimi77 View Post
0 gauge is more than enough for that amp - it's actually too much, but that shouldn't hurt anything. I'd try inputting audio straight into the amp from another source such as a smart phone and see what happens.
It does the same bud, IV tried two different head units still hums
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Old 04-27-2018, 03:29 AM   #4
basicxj

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What kind of head unit(s)?

Where is the amplifier grounded to exactly?
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Old 04-27-2018, 05:09 AM   #5
Mrbrightside224

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Quote:
Originally Posted by basicxj View Post
What kind of head unit(s)?

Where is the amplifier grounded to exactly?
IV used 2 pioneers and a jvc, IV tried multiple new grounds on the chassis also tried grounding off the battery and still humming, also when I turn the headunit off the sub like pops if that makes sense
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:17 AM   #6
basicxj

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbrightside224 View Post
IV used 2 pioneers and a jvc, IV tried multiple new grounds on the chassis also tried grounding off the battery and still humming, also when I turn the headunit off the sub like pops if that makes sense
The reason I ask is because there are many places you can try to ground an amplifier on a vehicle that you'd think would work just fine, but many of them result in issues. Try uploading a photo of your ground to a hosting site and posting a link here.

Pioneer head units have a delicate internal pico fuse on the motherboard inside- if the head unit is installed while the vehicle's battery is connected, or even when connections are made downstream (like amplifier RCAs) when the vehicle's battery is connected, the internal fuse will blow and you can have hums and pops during normal operation. The pico fuse is designed to be sacrificial and blows easily...too easily IMHO. If the amp ground is less than optimum and the amp tries to ground to the head unit via the RCA cables, the fuse can be damaged from that as well.

Try this experiment- wrap a bare copper wire around the outside of the head unit's RCA cables. Tie the other end of the wire in to the radio chassis, like under a screw.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...MDk1OA==/?ref=

If doing so reduces the hum and pops, or makes them go away, you've found part of the problem.
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:37 AM   #7
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Okay I will try this thanks, also IV used different harnesses aswell, and the ground is a bolt tapped into the chassis just next to the rear shock absorber, it's hard to get a picture because it's behind alot of trim, IV tried about 3 different grounds aswell. I'll try the copper thing
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbrightside224 View Post
Okay I will try this thanks, also IV used different harnesses aswell, and the ground is a bolt tapped into the chassis just next to the rear shock absorber, it's hard to get a picture because it's behind alot of trim, IV tried about 3 different grounds aswell. I'll try the copper thing
What kind of vehicle?

If it is relatively late model, a new nut/bolt/star washer through the floor pan with the surrounding metal sanded down until clean and shiny will be a sufficient ground- use a ring terminal on the ground wire to trap it between the washer and the floor pan on the bolt.
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Old 04-27-2018, 11:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basicxj View Post
What kind of vehicle?

If it is relatively late model, a new nut/bolt/star washer through the floor pan with the surrounding metal sanded down until clean and shiny will be a sufficient ground- use a ring terminal on the ground wire to trap it between the washer and the floor pan on the bolt.
It's a 2004, and that's what the ground is at the moment, it's sanded and shiny
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Old 04-27-2018, 03:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
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It's a 2004, and that's what the ground is at the moment, it's sanded and shiny
A 2004 what?
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Old 04-27-2018, 05:43 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basicxj View Post
A 2004 what?
Vauxhall Corsa 😂 (don't judge) haha I got told it could be the voltage regulator on the alternater? But idk how I'd check that, I tried that experiment you said, it has Increased the performance of the subwoofer but the hum is still there.
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbrightside224 View Post
Vauxhall Corsa 😂 (don't judge) haha I got told it could be the voltage regulator on the alternater? But idk how I'd check that, I tried that experiment you said, it has Increased the performance of the subwoofer but the hum is still there.
They don't sell those here in N. America, so no idea if that is a good thing or a bad thing.I haven't seen a Vauxhall here in Canada since the late 60's. What I was getting at is that if it is a typical unibody vehicle, grounding to the floor pan is ideal (maybe even preferable to grounding to the chassis), as is making sure the battery negative post to body ground and engine block to body grounds are tip top.

Your alternator may be 70A. Your amp alone can pull up to 120A at (or beyond) full output. That is quite a deficiency. When can an amp pull up to or beyond its rated fuse capacity? When gain is too high, when bass boost features are used, with both situations compounded with a lower impedance load wired up. If there is a problem with the alternator, it is likely that output is too low for what you are demanding from it in the form of installing additional high draw accessories. Using too much gain can make hums or whine that would be less audible at lower output much more audible, not to mention allowing the amp to be overdriven when you turn things up.
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:35 PM   #13
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That's a lot of info haha, well I believe IV set the gain correctly with a 40hz test tone, and the amp max output is 2500 but my sub is currently 1000watts peak because the other sub I originally planned on using is broke so the amp is never drawing it's max capacity,
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Old 04-27-2018, 11:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbrightside224 View Post
That's a lot of info haha, well I believe IV set the gain correctly with a 40hz test tone, and the amp max output is 2500 but my sub is currently 1000watts peak because the other sub I originally planned on using is broke so the amp is never drawing it's max capacity,
"Peak" and "max" numbers are for marketing purposes for the uneducated, and have no basis in reality, so you shouldn't spend much time putting any weight on them or using them to set things up properly- RMS or continuous power and power handling are the specs that matter. If your equipment is from a reputable manufacturer, you should be able to trust the RMS power ratings rather than guess based on peak or max marketing mumbo jumbo. If you used the set gain by ear method, using a test tone closer to 60-80hz will make things easier to detect the point where clipping starts as the ear is better able to hear distortion in the higher frequencies than it is @ 40hz.

A sub will receive whatever power your amplifier puts out based on the load it sees (impedance of the sub's voice coils and how they are wired), so it won't just take what it needs. If that power produced happens to exceed the woofer's power handling (in RMS watts) for more than very brief periods, it can release the magic smoke. If you tell us about the sub and how you have it wired, it will be easier to figure out how hard the amplifier is or isn't working. If you want the amp to work at its best, an upgraded high output alternator, or one that has been re-wound to make more amperage will be needed.
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